The changing landscape of Bairrada and Dao

Wines from Bairrada and Dao are fast becoming Portugal’s most sought after, championing native varietals and changing perceptions of Portuguese wines with their fresh, mineral, elegant styles. Edd recently toured the regions, meeting innovative producers who are leading the way.

“What struck me on returning from Bairrada and Dao in Portugal was the juxtaposition to the common understanding in the UK market of Portuguese wines being big over extracted fruit bombs. The coastal, maritime region of Bairrada and mountainous Dao, at their best, represent freshness, elegance and poise in both their white and red wines”

Luis Pato, Bairrada

Firstly, we visited Luis Pato in Bairrada. Luis has been integral in putting Bairrada on the map, especially establishing Baga, a variety Luis likens to Nebbiolo, as a variety capable of making truly world class wines. His father produced the first Bairrada DOC wines and Luis has continued to establish the winery amongst Portugal’s very best. The cool, maritime climate and chalky clay soils, where much of the vines are grown, lend themselves to making wines of great tension and focus with a hallmark of freshness balanced with evocative perfume and vibrant fruit character.

We tasted numerous sparkling, white and red wines with Luis and Maria (Luis’ daughter, who is working alongside Luis on the continued evolution of both the Luis Pato and Joao Pato wines). Typical white grape varieties include Maria Gomes, Bical, Sercial and Sercialinho, red wines are made predominantly from Baga.

Despite being in his 44th vintage, Luis is constantly seeking improvement, for example using hyper oxidation in his sparkling and whites to reduce the need for SO2. As well as recently changing the fermentation temperature of his red wines to improve structure and balance. He’s also developing orange wines made from red grapes with a proportion of white skins, and rose pet nat from white grapes and a proportion of red (baga) skins). Their wines were truly exceptional. Highlights included the phenomenal Sercialinho from Quinta do Riberinho and the vertical tasting of Vinha Pan showing the quality and long ageing potential of carefully managed Baga.

Quinta dos Roques and Quinta dos Maias, Dao

Next stop, Quinta dos Roques and Quinta dos Maias in the Dao. Both owned and run by Luis Lourenco and his family. Quinta dos Maias specialises in Jaen (known as Mencia in Galicia), a high yielding variety which has a short growing cycle. Yields are carefully managed to promote quality, and at Maias, plays a leading role in blends and as a single varietal wine. At Quinta dos Roques, Encruzado and Touriga Nacional take centre stage. The Encruzado, rich yet focused, the Touriga, perfumed and refreshing, yet structured and concentrated on the palate.

In the 1980s, Luis Lurenco was asked by his father in law to come and assist with the winery. A daunting prospect for a former Maths teacher who knew nothing about wine and drink of choice was coke. But Luis felt a responsibility to keep the winery in the family and agreed to join the business.

Challenging the status quo of tradition for tradition’s sake, Luis quickly moved from field blends to single varietals, to understand what each varietal brings to the blend. The outcome, greater balance and an understanding of the region’s true potential. Now closely assisted in the winery by his son, Jose, Luis seeks constant improvement in the vineyard and the winery. Both Luis and Jose have a passionate desire to respect the tradition of Dao, yet to push boundaries in search of constant evolution.

And in that spirit, Dao traditionally is about blends. Through their work with single varieties and understanding the components better, they have worked tirelessly to ever improve their flagship blends. We tasted through the 2020, 2009 and 1990 of the Coheita Tinto, their most important wine at Quinta dos Roques, it showed gentle evolution, and the potential of incredible quality, especially for a wine under £20 on the shelf.

Carlos Raposo, Dao

Finally, we visited Carlos Raposo, a relative newcomer to the Dao based in Nelles. In contrast to Luis’ start in wine, Carlos has a rich pedigree of experience having been involved in winemaking since his mid teens. Carlos did not get on with school and was forcibly sent by his parents to ‘a kind of a prison’ of a school, where winemaking and viticulture were the only options. Thankfully Carlos loved it, and having studied in Bairrada, went to continue his studies in Bordeaux and Burgundy before vintages in Ribera del Duero, California and Australia. He then returned to Portugal working with Dirk Niepoort, eventually taking over as Head Winemaker.

Carlos decided to set up his own winery in the Dao and embarked on making some of the worlds best wines. His ambition was not misguided, releasing his Imperfeitos field blend in 2018 to rapturous reviews, quickly considered one of the best white wines of Portugal.

Carlos’ wines were exceptional with a clear DNA running throughout, purity, precision, elegance. Incredible balance and structure, they were a privilege to taste.

Both Bairrada and Dao at their best showcase wines of great freshness, concentration and ageing potential across red and white. Both remain regions that feel at the early stages of their potential evolution, despite the quality already showcased by the producers we visited. They have an identity which should continue to be harnessed, we look forward to sharing some new listings soon!