Albariño 2021/23, Zarate, DO Rías Baixas

Albariño as it should be. Minerality and balance
in a bottle. Strongly mineral, balanced and very
focused and tight, like a good Chablis. Hidden
amongst the steely character of the wine, stone
fruits such as peach and apricot lurk. Unlike
some paler versions of Albariño, this wine
should last well over the next two or three
years.

There are five subzone D.O.s in Rias Baixas in the north-west corner of Spain. Bodegas Zárate is located in the Val do Salnes, named after the ‘sal’ (salt) the Romans used to harvest there, and home to around 70% of the regional production.

This small but brilliantly run cellar was established in 1920, Ernesto Zárate was pivotal in promoting Albariño in the area, which at that time was in danger of being replaced by mildew resistant higher yielding hybrid varietals. In 1954 Ernesto joined together with three friends to found the Cambados Albariño Festival, which now attracts hundreds of people to the area every year.

From 1994, the vineyards have been un-tilled, with permanent natural cover
(mint, dandelion and a dozen other herbs) and there are no herbicides or
chemically synthesised nutrients. The grass is cut for mulch three times/year and
no fertilisers are used. New vineyards are composted once with sardines and
Atlantic seaweed, and planted to diverse selections of quality genetic material
from Eulogio’s best holdings. Mildew is attacked with rock sulphur in powder
and spray form, and a variety of copper formats are applied at extremely low
levels to avoid soil toxicity. After hand-picking the grapes, fruit is destemmed and lightly pressed. Wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks and rests on its fine lees for 3 months, with no
battonage.