There is now a new wave of winemakers fighting back against the commercial style of Rioja and Telmo Rodriguez is at the forefront; he believes that Rioja should not be a “recipe”, that there is fortunately no longer one style of Rioja as modern winemakers like him focus on the fruit, the ‘terroir’ and more traditional methods. Telmo has been described by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate as “Rioja’s number one Terroirist”.
In this wine from old vines on the Remelluri estate owned by Telmo & his sister Amaia, Tempranillo grape is blended with a little Graciano and Garnacha (Grenache); minimal intervention is practised and the wine is certified organic. The 2012 vintage was not as hot as the previous year but the wine from this vintage is still displaying lots of fruit. In addition the cooler climate has helped combine the earthy red fruit with spice and savouriness – and with amazing elegance. It’s a complex Rioja Reserva and a refreshing acidity cuts through the richness making it very drinkable indeed.